Snapper, based in McDonough, Georgia, is well known for making yard care and snow-removal tools including mowers, blowers and other equipment. Founded in 1894, the company was first called Southern Saw Works and holds claim on inventing the first self-propelled lawn mower. Today, Snapper has grown to a multi-national organization providing equipment to thousands of residential and commercial customers each year. While the manufacturer prides itself on producing durable equipment, over time you may need parts or service for your Snapper. This quick reference guide will help you find the model number so you can obtain that snapper part you need fast.

• Rear Engine Riding Mower – A Snapper mower has two important numbers. Snapper riding mowers have a Briggs and Stratton engine. The Snapper model and serial number is on a sticker on the rear-back portion of the mower. The Briggs and Stratton model number is engraved on the OHV cover of the engine itself.
• Zero-Turn Mower – These zero-turn mowers have a Kawasaki engine. The Snapper model and serial number is on a sticker near the left rear tire. The Kawasaki number is on a sticker on the left side of the engine.
• Push Mower – The snapper model and serial number is located on a sticker on the rear portion of the deck. Tecumseh makes the engines in these models, and the numbers are engraved on the side of the engine.
• Snow Blower – Snapper snow blowers have a Briggs and Stratton engine as well. The Snapper number is on a tag on the back panel, underneath the handles. The Briggs and Stratton number is engraved directly on the engine cover.
• Chainsaws, Trimmers and Edgers – Snapper has produced a number of these products, most of which are powered by Briggs and Stratton engines. The Snapper model number is normally on a sticker on the case (though this can vary from model to model.) The Briggs and Stratton model number is found etched on the engine itself.

If you have further questions about Snapper products, you can reach Snapper customer service at 1-800-933-6175.

To order Genuine Snapper Parts online visit www.SnapperPartsDistributors.com or call toll free at 1-800-704-4241

Blower Parts:

The first thing you need to do is ensure that your leaf blower is well maintained. Consult the manual that came with the unit to verify how often you need to maintain it. If you plan to do it yourself make note of your model number so you are able to order the correct blower parts you need. Some manuals have a parts list so you can get the exact OEM Parts numbers you need for the most common replaced parts like air filters, spark plugs and fuel filters.

 Use Proper Oil and Change Often

Changing the oil regularly is important if you want to extend the lifespan of the machine to its maximum potential. Always ensure that there is sufficient oil in the machine before you begin using it. The few seconds it takes to check for low oil could save you big in both time and money for an expensive repair should you fry the engine. Last but not least always use the exact recommended oil for your unit. Again refer to the owner’s manual if you are not sure. There are many grades and types of outdoor equipment oil available. Do not assume they are all the same.

Change the Spark Plug and Tune Up the Machine

The spark plug needs to be checked every so often for fouling and damage. If it is coated or the electrode is pitted and worn down it could hinder performance of your unit. You should change the spark plug after every100 hours of use or at the start of every season. Some brands like Husqvarna and Echo have complete tune up kits available for their blowers. They make performing a seasonal tune up quick and cost effective. These kits usually  come with the air filter, fuel filter, spark plug and oil needed to do a tune up on your machine.

Everyday Maintenance

Keep your unit clean and when you are using it in a particularly dusty environment be sure to blow out the air filter often. Check that you have enough oil and fuel before you start the engine and begin using the machine. Make a point of checking and tightening bolts on different parts of the machine to ensure that they are tight.

It sounds simple but just following a few of these little guidelines will keep your machine running like new for a long time. Machines break. There is no escaping that reality. But with a little effort we can stack the odds in our favor every time.

Some quick links by brand to get the Blower Parts and tune up materials you need.

Small engine parts  for mowers

With the best intention in the world, you have been tinkering away in your garage, you have followed the instructions on various websites including You Tube, and you’re confident that all you need is some oil, an air filter and the throttle knob. Having noted down the model number of your mower, you are ready to order your parts by phone or online. You call in and start speaking to one of the technicians, and quickly realize you do not have all the information you need.

So what went wrong?

Unfortunately, the mower’s model number is not the always the same as the engine’s model number. To order an air filter which is an engine part, you need to know the engine number, not the mower model number. The engine number is on the label or stamped somewhere on the engine itself, and quite often it is on the plate near the muffler or on the side of the engine itself. If your mower gets dirty, you may need to clean it to find the label or stamp.

Different engines have their serial numbers in different places, but be sure to keep looking because you will find it. Furthermore, the throttle knob is not an engine part, it’s a mower part, so you need the mower’s model number to order that. If you want oil, you should note there are lots of different oils: fork oil, transmission oil, filter oil and engine oil, to name a few.

How to make it easier

Be specific and do your homework before you place an order. Having both the mower model number and the engine model number are a great start. Having the actual part numbers is the fastest way to order, but be careful. If you are using a manual or parts list that came with your mower be sure to verify that the model number listed in the manual is the same as the model number on your mower, sometimes they are not the same! The parts technicians are always happy to help, but in order to boost your confidence you could check out the online parts look-up guides, these will help to ensure you’re ordering the parts you need.

We have put together ten top tips to help you find the part you want:

1. Find the model number on your mower and the engine; it’s a good idea to write these numbers down in your owner’s manual so you have it somewhere safe, plus they’ll be easy to find next time you need them.

2. Use the Power Mower Sales search box at the top of the page, just put in the numbers you’ve found and a recommended list will appear, then, click on your model.

3. From there you can see your model and on the right will be a link to ‘Select Assembly’.

4. A   pop-up window will appear, click the link to the group of parts that you want, for example, you may want a fuel strainer for a fuel tank, to find this part you would look at the fuel supply link.

5. A technical drawing will appear showing each part, together with a parts list.

6. Use your mouse to move the drawing around and find the part. Hovering over the little box with a number will make another pop-up appear, telling you what the part is, its number and price.

7. Hit the ‘Add to Cart’ if you have found a part you want, then use the ‘Continue shopping’ button to go back to the drawing.

8. You can order online, or call our toll free part line on: 1-800-704-4241 where we can make sure you have everything you need.

9. Don’t forget to sign up to the mailing list so you can get discounts and special offers.

10. Sit back and relax while we ship your part(s) to you.

Why does my part number show up under so many manufacturers?

Some of the mower manufacturers are owned by the same parent company. So, a part you need for a Snapper mower may turn out to be from Briggs and Stratton. Specific part numbers may give you multiple results, for example, an exhaust pipe gasket for a 170-v0B engine in a Cub Cadet mower is the same as the MDT Muffler that comes up under the same search.

Here is a quick manufacturer guide.

Briggs and Stratton is the main manufacturer of Snapper, Simplicity and Murray.

MDT manufactures Cub Cadet and Troy-Bilt.

Husqvarna manufactures many parts for RedMax, WeedEater and Poulan.

But I have an old machine

Online parts look-up guides and small engine parts catalogs can help there. Many brands like Toro have parts lookus that go back to their earliest machines. If all else fails, trained parts technicians are always willing to help out whenever they can. Do not hesitate to call in with your model information and get some help if you need it.

How often should I maintain my mower?

So you purchased a lawn mower and plunked down a pile of cash to get a decent one. Now your goal should be to keep that investment running it’s best for as long as it can. The manufacturer’s instructions will tell you how often to check and maintain your mower, however if you want the best from your mower then you should give it the best.  Landscapers and gardeners rely on their machines running in top form for their income, and will have a set mower maintenance schedule; from daily and weekly tasks to monthly, seasonal jobs. Homeowners can get the most out of their investment also. Make your machine last longer and get better performance out of it by adhering to a few simple maintenance routines

Everyday maintenance – Every time you take the mower out to cut.

Note: Before you start doing any work or inspections on your mower – always disconnect the spark plug.
The first step in any maintenance program is taking proper care of your mower with each use. You should have cleaned all the grass and debris off the mower before you put it away last time. If you didn’t, then tilt the mower over on its side and give it a good, thorough cleaning. All that leftover grass under the deck will bind up and make your engine run harder, your blades dull and cost you more money in fuel. An old wooden doorstop or piece of scrap wood is ideal as it will not scratch the underside of the deck. Make sure the chute is clear of grass too.

The next step is to inspect the blade. Have a good look at the blade, there should be a clean, sharp pair of cutting edges without too many chips. If there are many dings in the edge and they are larger than the size of your small fingernail then you should stop mowing stones and get it replaced. Make sure the blade is straight and flat, a bend or curve in the blade will affect the cut and possibly damage the mower. Blades take the more abuse than of any part of your mower. Inspect them often and re-set or replace them as needed, your local mower shop can help.

If you have a cylinder mower, make sure there are no tangled bits of grass or string wrapped round the moving cylinder, belts and spindle.

If you need to adjust a cylinder mower, tighten or loosen a little at a time until you can hear a smooth cutting noise, if you hold a piece of paper and carefully rotate the cylinder (keep fingers out of the way), the cut should be as clean as it would be with a pair of scissors. The cylinder is now set for a fine luxury lawn or putting green, if the grass sward is not this good, loosen off the blade a touch but not too much.

Fuel and oil are the life’s blood of your mower.

Check the fuel, and top up with fresh fuel (not when the mower is on the lawn). That rusty old can lurking in the back of the garage is no good. The fuel went stale months ago and you definitely do not want those rusty bits of tin can working their way through your mower’s engine. There are fuel conditioners you can add to fresh fuel which can make it last longer in the can.

By now the oil should have settled in the bottom of the engine, which means you can now check it. The oil should be checked every time you use the mower and changed about every 25 hours of run time. As every lawn is different, working out when to change oil can be a bit tricky. If it takes you an hour to mow and you mow every week, you should change your oil at least every 6 months.  Pull out the dipstick wipe it on a clean cloth, then replace the dipstick making sure you go all the way down into the bottom of the engine’s crank case before you take the measurement. The oil should be of a nice solid colour like good quality cooking oil or dark brown like an espresso, but definitely not frothy like custard. If you do have frothy custard on the stick, don’t use the mower.  Take it down to your local mower repair shop and explain the problem.  They may need to replace the cylinder head gasket.

Keep your mower breathing easy

Because the engine is so close to the action the air filter always gets clogged up with grass dust and debris. A commercial landscaper would check the filter every week or so, especially if the weather has been dry and dusty. Most of the dirt should be easy to remove, with a blow or a tap. If the filter is caked in with a lot of dirt and grime then it is time to replace it with a new one. Be sure to note both your model number and the engine model number so you can locate the correct part for your unit.

Spark Plugs

Generally the spark plug is checked at the start, middle and end of the mowing season. Use the correct spark plug socket to loosen the plug, then with your fingers carefully remove the plug by unscrewing it. A little black is okay but caked in coke and soot is bad, use a wire brush gently to remove the coke. DO NOT USE WATER. If you must use something to clean it, a cupful of gas will do. Make sure the ground electrode is nice and clean and the gap between the center electrode and the ground is as the manufacturer specifies. Sticking your fingernail in the gap is not good enough, use a feeler gauge, they are cheap enough and they make your engine run sweet.

When the electrodes are worn down, replace them with a new plug, this is usually done when the oil has a full change, about 25 hours or annually depending on use. Carefully replace the spark plug, and tighten as required.

Cables

Now it’s time to check the cables, is the throttle and choke moving well? Are any tangled cables put back in their retaining clips? Plug the spark plug back in and slowly pull out the start cord, remember, you are not firing up the engine, you are checking the cord for nicks tares and damage.  The last check is that the bolts holding the handles are nicely tightened, and perhaps you might want to dust over the mower with a cloth.

If all is good, push the little primer bubble two or three times and fire up the engine and check the brake and emergency stop. If all is well, fit the grass box and you’re ready to fire it up and get going

Finishing up

Remember as you finish up and put the mower away, to clean out the grass box, the under the deck, chute and drip a little oil on the spindle or shaft, not forgetting to wipe off any moisture to reduce rusting. A mower that has stood idle for many months, especially over the colder damp winter months could have seized up, so make sure you free the engine up by giving the blade a turn before you start it up.

Keeping up with these tasks will keep your mower in prime condition, extend its lifespan and give you a much better return on your investment.

To keep your yard looking crisp and clean you need a Leaf Blower!

It is a constant effort to keep the landscape and grounds around our home or businesses clean. The hours it takes to sweep and bag loose debris, grass clippings, leaves and other litter is precious time wasted. If your property is situated by a busy road or other source of leaf litter the mess can pile right back up again within days, making it a constant chore to keep the place neat and clean. When grounds are free from litter they just look better and give the impression that the home or business that resides on the property is of more worth or value. If you are tired of sinking the time into a losing battle with the broom and bag, then it’s time to bring in the heavy artillery. It is time for a leaf blower!

When it comes to clearing a large area of loose debris quickly, nothing beats a leaf blower. Modern designs are powerful and lightweight, with battery, electric or gas powered models available. They are easy to use and highly portable for maximum effect. There are a large variety of low cost handheld blowers on the market. Handheld models are perfect for the homeowner or light duty commercial applications but if more power and longer operation time is required then a backpack blower is the way to go. Backpack blowers are just what they sound like, the unit is mounted to a harness that allows the user to wear the engine on their back and use the handheld wand to blow as they walk.  Although more suited to heavy-duty jobs and commercial use, some homeowners prefer a backpack blower for its power and comfort. The price of a backpack blower is a bit higher, but they are designed for commercial use and tend to hold up to prolonged use better.

For large scale cleanup there is a third configuration of leaf blower available. The walk behind blower is a larger version of the same machine mounted to a rolling deck with a large push handle much like a lawn mower. The blower nozzle is set low to the ground to one side of the machine so as you push the blower along the edge of the walk or road it clears a swath of land as it passes. These machines are usually used for heavy duty applications where a long stretch needs to be cleared fast.

A leaf blower is a fairly simple device. An engine propels air through a tube and out of a nozzle at the end to move debris such as leaves, cut grass and dirt. Some models can be converted to a vacuum by adding attachments and bags that can be used to clean gutters or suck up leaves. Leaf blowers are usually powered by two-stroke engine or an electric motor, but four-stroke engines were recently introduced to address power and air pollution concerns.  Both handheld and backpack models are easy to maintain and repair. It is easy to find leaf blower parts online for all the top brands. There are also blower attachments and accessories available for most models.

Cub Cadet is a brand synonymous with power.
The company produces a large line of outdoor power equipment—though they are best known for their riding lawn mowers and tractors. Based in the United States, Cub Cadet is now a global organization, distributing their products through both independent dealers and large home improvement stores. Luckily, it is easy to get the Cub Cadet parts or service you need for your Cub Cadet equipment from any independent dealer. However, you will need to know your Cub Cadet model number when you call for parts or service. This guide helps find the correct model number on the most popular pieces by Cub Cadet so you can get your mower, tractor or other equipment back in top form again.

• Cub Cadet Walk-behind (push) Mowers – The model number is found on a metal plate on the left rear portion of the deck. The model number begins with an 11 or 12.
• Cub Cadet Tractors and Riding Mower – There is a plate located beneath the seat with a model number beginning with 13 or 14.
• Cub Cadet Zero-turn Mowers – This is also beneath the seat but begins  with the number 17
• Cub Cadet Tillers – The model number, which begins with 21, is on a plate on the tine housing.
• Cub Cadet Single Stage Snow Throwers – This is found on a small plate near the belt cover, it begins with a 31
• Cub Cadet Two-Stage Snow Throwers – Also beginning with the number 31, the plate for this thrower is found between the wheels on the frame cover.
• Cub Cadet String Trimmers – There is a sticker on the starter housing which has a model number beginning with 41 or 42.
• Cub Cadet Leaf Blowers – A model number beginning with 41 or 42 is found on a sticker near the assembly of the starter recoil.
• Cub Cadet Chainsaws – The model number is on a sticker located on the handle of the chainsaw; it starts with the number 41.
• Cub Cadet Log Splitters – On the frame, beneath the engine you will find a small plate that has a model number beginning with 24.
• Cub Cadet Hedge Trimmers – There is a sticker underneath the battery with the model number—starting with 41.
• Cub Cadet Utility Vehicles – Underneath the driver’s seat, there is a plate with a model number that begins with 37.

Once you have the model number, you can call buy parts online at www.cubcadetpartsdistributor.com

Have a question for the manufacturer? Call Cub Cadet directly at 1 (877) 428-2349

I want to recommend you not to choose a chain saw based on bar length and power alone. If the job requires it, purchase the biggest saw you can safely control but don’t buy a big saw just to stroke your ego. Regular maintenance goes a long way to keep your saw fit for duty. Clean or replace the air filter often. Replace the spark plug annually or according to manufacturer’s recommendations. You should always use a high quality two cycle oil for the gasoline mixture, and a good bar and chain oil to get the longest life out of your bar and chain.
A chain saw should fit you. What I mean by fit is that it should be balanced, comfortable to hold and easy to work with. If you pickup several different brands and styles of saw, you’ll see what I mean. This is a mindless machine with dozens of razor sharp teeth racing around a long steel bar within inches of your hands, feet, legs, and sometimes, face. It doesn’t care whether it’s cutting through downed trees or flesh and bone. It’s vital that the saw fit you. Put on some leather work gloves. Do your fingers wrap around the handles completely? Can you use the throttle trigger while maintaining a good grip? Can you shut it off without taking your hand off the handle? When the saw slices all the way through the limb can you keep the tip from falling to the ground? This might happen if you are cutting up through a limb and the tip of the bar contacts the wood as you begin your cut or it can happen if you are cutting down through a limb that’s supported on both ends and the limb bends and pinches the upper front part of the chain in the kerf.

To prevent kickback, do not let the tip of the bar and chain contact the wood you are cutting. Keep the wood centered on the bar and don’t try to cut trees or limbs that are too large for your saw. Chain and bar designs improve the performance of your saw and can reduce the chances of kickback. Homelier probably has the most effective anti-kickback feature on the market. Vibration control is more than a safety issue. You’ll be able to spend more time cutting if your saw is comfortable to use. Now, if you have lots of money, there are some very high quality (and expensive) saws in small sizes. But if you plan on buying a bigger saw later and just keep the small one for a spare, then you might want to start with a lower priced saw. Whatever saw you decide on, make sure that the saw fits you well, with a power/size range that you’re comfortable with, and that you can operate safely? Then go cut some wood.

Big capacity for big trees – Husqvarna’s biggest models have enough muscle for the heaviest jobs in the forest, but at the same time they are built to be easy to start, handle and service. With powerful engines and LowVibe vibration damping system, Air Injection and well thought out user-friendliness, they are some of the market’s largest, but at the same time handiest, machines. Once considered a widow maker because of its propensity to maim its operator, in the 1960s, the chainsaw came into its own as a farm and ranch tool – still considered dangerous, but safe enough for the general public. Improved safety features and accessories have made the chainsaw ever more popular today. If you fell trees for any reason a few times each year or have serious tree trimming to do, it might just be time to take this power-tool plunge and choose the best chainsaw for your needs.

But with all the models, brands, power sources and cutting capacities out there, how do you choose? If you are at all like me, you might be drawn to the high horsepower, heavy-duty rating and long cutter-bar length when considering a new saw. While those cream-of-the-crop cutters might make sense for professional loggers charged with felling trees all day, every day of the year, they don’t make sense for a professional tree trimmer, much less the average homeowner – even if you have 10 acres of woodlot to maintain. Sometimes the smaller, lighter saw is more than adequate for clearing brush or trimming trees around your place. Sometimes you don’t really need a chainsaw at all. The chainsaws that most folks consider for home or farm use will fall into three general power head categories: corded electric, battery electric and internal combustion engine. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. In general, electric chainsaws tend to be less expensive and lighter than their gas-engine-powered counterparts. Corded electric saws cut a little slower in most cases and tend to max out with an 18-inch-long cutter bar. Electric saws are quieter, simple to start (assuming you have a long enough extension cord or a well-charged battery), and they don’t require that you fuss with gasoline, oil and other maintenance issues associated with internal combustion engines.

Battery-powered chainsaws tend to have short cutting bars (less than 10 inches), but that can be useful for light pruning. With ever-changing battery technology, the outlook for increased capacity in battery-powered saws is good.

It is important to keep your chainsaw running it’s best, and you can use chainsaw maintenance kit for that. Preventive maintenance is the smartest course to take if you care for your equipment and want to get the longest lifespan out of the investment. Give your saw a quick tune up with these handy maintenance kits from Husqvarna. Each kit includes an air filter, spark plug, fuel filter and 2.6 oz. bottle of synthetic fuel mix (for 1 gallon of gas).

It is easy to get confused trying to understand the different styles of chainsaw chain available out there. We know there are 2 basic styles of chainsaw chain and both concern the teeth and how they are shaped. No matter what a saw chain manufacturer calls their chain, it will always come back to these 2 styles. 1 style is the round tooth or chipper tooth and this can be easily seen by the way the tooth is rounded on the backside and then curves over the top. The other style is the square tooth, chisel tooth, or flat top tooth and this style is very square with a flat back and flat top.  Using a chain saw significantly cuts the time and energy devoted to homestead chores. But that’s only true if the saw’s chain is sharp. A dull chain saw is about as useful for cutting wood as a plastic spoon. To cut quickly and safely, saws must be sharpened often. With a few simple tools, here’s how we easily can do it our self. When choosing a chainsaw, one of the first decisions we’ll need to make is whether we want a gas or electric model. The size of our chainsaw is another important consideration. Smaller chainsaws are lighter and easier to control, so if we are only looking to use it around the home a smaller blade will be a good choice. For industrial use, look for a larger chainsaw that will cover more space. To use a chainsaw, hold it chainsaw firmly in both hands, and do not cut above shoulder level. Unless we are a professional, we should use our chainsaw on the ground only, never on a ladder or in a tree. Be particularly careful about young trees which larger trees have fallen on. When the larger tree is removed, the young tree can spring back and kick our chainsaw out of your control. Maintenance is critical, and it’s important to keep your saw chain sharp. A dull saw chain requires you to use more pressure, which is more likely to lead to an injury. It is important to carry sharp replacement saw chains with you so they can be replaced when dull. Always use protective gear when operating a chainsaw, including a helmet with face and hearing protection, heavy cotton or leather gloves, and heavy boots with steel toes. Finally, always read your chainsaw’s operating manual thoroughly and be sure you understand each instruction.